Yeah Racing Tamiya TT-02 Aluminum RWD Drift Conversion Kit (Blue)

*While not purchased from Amain, I do own this kit. The review below is based on my experience using the kit, although I must mention that I have no idea where the previous owner had purchased the kit from.

As the first reviewer of this kit, I thought it’d be great to give my insight on this rather brilliant option from Yeah Racing. For me, I had purchased a second-hand TT-02 that had this full conversion fitted to it.

This kit comes with the basics you need to get your TT-02 to become a RWD drift chassis. I won’t bore you with specifics but you get everything you need to convert the chassis to RWD.

Putting this kit together will require a LOT of time as each individual component must be assembled entirely prior to fitting them to the kit so you will need to plan out your order of assembly carefully or you’re likely to get frustrated.

Here’s where I will recommend a few things when assembling.

-Use anti-seize when assembling any of the set screws and turnbuckles into the aluminum parts. I say this because I’ve had to fight with some when making tiny adjustments

-Use BLUE thread lock on the screws that hold posts the steering arms mount to. This is important as if they come loose, they will contact the camber links in the front as they turn causing the steering to bind

-Again, use BLUE thread lock on the3x2mm set screws that hold the adjustable rear axles in place. Let the thread lock dry at least a few hours to a day before running to give the thread lock time to set and hold everything together. Be prepared to readjust the set screws after a few runs as they can vibrate out while running, even with BLUE thread lock. DO NOT EVER USE RED THREAD LOCK AS IT WILL CHEMICALLY BOND THE POST AND SCREWS TOGETHER FOREVER!!!

-The shocks are VERY specific in their build that you MUST follow the instructions TO A TEE or you’ll experience binding! They’re also very specific that spare parts like the lower ends can only be ordered through Yeah Racing as they are specific to this kit!

-Speaking of shocks, you may need to resort to using a dulled set of 12AWG wire cutters to hold the shafts while you tighten the KIT SPECIFIC lower shock ends onto it as the shortened stroke of the dampers (7.5mm front, 10mm in the rear) will likely not give you any room to use any type of damper/shock pliers.

-Measure, measure, measure! Use a set of calipers to ensure you have everything exactly the same as what’s in the manuals included with all the different parts. This is important as you don’t want to have your camber links different left to right as the car will handle wonky.

-Lastly, RETAIN ALL OF THE DOCUMENTATION FOR FUTURE REFERENCE! I say this because unless you write it down, you’ll never know where the “stock” setup was for which to reference when making changes to the chassis and could be the difference in having an awesome day at the track or not.

Now with that out of the way, let me talk about some of the downsides to using this kit.

-First, it’s pricey. For the cost of converting, you can buy a chassis built and designed for the task already like an MST RMX 2.0. That kit as an RTR is still cheaper than a standard TT-02 and this kit combined.

-Next, you still need a steering gyro. While A LOT of inexperienced people on the internet will brag that they can drive without one, you really do need one if you plan on having a good time. Lots of great options out there to fit different budgets. I went with a Yeah Racing Aluminum housing HackSlider gyro. To each their own, your mileage may vary depending on what you use.

-Lastly, this kit doesn’t include the adjustable rear toe angle kit which is an added expense and isn’t always in stock, even overseas! It definitely makes a difference in keeping the car stable on the straights and while not necessary, your TATT-S03 just won’t feel complete without it.

In closing, I love my kit and the chassis. I got my chassis second-hand and I’m lucky to have it. While it won’t be as good as the MST’s and Yokomo’s currently dominating my local drift competitions, it’s still very fun to have and makes for a great basher drift car. My only gripe is how expensive it is to buy but what you get out of it more than makes up for it.

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*My current setup is all stock but I use a FlySky Noble NB4 and FgR4S 4-channel receiver to control the car as you WILL want at least a 3-channel receiver to take advantage of remote gain functions of many of the drift-spec gyros on the market. I recommend a 4-channel in the event you decide to run brushless as you may need a fan for the ESC and/or the motor.

As for gyro, I previously ran a Yokomo YG-302 (aka standard Yokomo YD2 gyro) but because this is a Tamiya with Yeah Racing parts, it now has a Yeah Racing aluminum housing HackSlider drift-spec gyro.

Also, I currently run ReveD AS-01 tires as they’ve been one of the best performing tires with this setup. Amain only stock the Yokomo DR-A (asphalt) and DR-C (carpet/P-Tile) tires, both of which are great alternatives to the ReveD and much easier to find than the DS Racing Comp III LF-5 (aka the spec drift tire via Super G rules).

Don’t buy this. Buy a MRC angle kit and just delete all the front drive.

Overall the kit is very nice just a few things to know before hand. First you are going to need bearings either out of your old knuckles or you will have to buy 8 new ones. The description doesn’t mention this. Also the steering is very loose and the control arms bind on the tie rods if you follow there install instructions so you are going to have to play with shock mount position and ride height to get it to function correctly.