Tekno RC M6 Driveshaft & Hub Carrier Set

I saw this kit looking thru forums and also on the Tekno Rc webstie and wanted to try to upgrade the rigidity of my 2 Pro-line Kits (PRO-MT and Pro2 SC buggy)when I saw some good reviews I made my decisions and order this kit paired with the longer bones (TKR2210) to be compatible with the wider stance of the pro-line protrac suspension. And just wow.. The bigger bearings in the hub carriers ,the bigger axles and the added Toe-in of the hubs made both vehicle more stable in the straights and punching after a turn.. I also purchase the Aluminum HEX Clamped adapters (TKR1654X) to go with this kit.. Yes it's an expansive upgrade to say the least but Wow , now I don't break rear axles in my Pro-MT anymore .. Thanks Amain

PS: Be careful that with the Pro-line F11 protrac wheels you will need to put a (0.5mm)shim between the HEX and your Wheel.The Hex is to deep and part of the M6 axle goes thru the pro-line F11 Wheels and this causes a gap between your wheel and your serrated nut..

This didnt work on my slash 2wd setup with rpm arms the dogbones bottom out on the drive cups before the shocks collapse. I contacted tekno and they told me they will not work on anything but factory arms. Ok first off who the hell doesnt step up to rpm arms after stock arms break so the way it stood I was out $45 so in order to make them work I had to take 1mm off each side of the diff, countersink the inside of the tekno hubs and .5mm off the end of the dogbones and round the edges with 12mm bump stops on the shocks so now the chassis slaps the ground when the suspension collapses. Had tekno made dogbones 2mm shorter and the drive cups 2mm longer this would have solved everything…. bad r&d on their part. Time will tell if it was a waste of time and money

Does not fit on a Nitro Stampede or Nitro Rustler. Driveshafts are way too long and hit the inside of the drive cup which don't allow full suspension travel.

First thing I noticed was an absurd amount of slop in the rear end after installing all 4 corners. Both sides had holes too large for the pin that connects the rear hub carrier to the lower control arm. Decided I'd see how they worked as a whole, anyway. I got a few batteries through before they started breaking. I do bash kinda hard, but it seems like if a factory style one would have broken, so would have the tekno. Unreasonably fragile for the price paid. They call them hardened, but they'll bend without breaking? The nylon carriers seem weaker than factory, to boot. Never broke a factory one, but have broken two of these now. Not sure how folks have been happy with them. Think I'll be looking for a different driveshaft solution, as I'll go broke if these continue to break on a regular interval.

Don't know what that 1-Star review is talking about, these are great. Less expensive than the MIP kit, an ACTUAL CVD (not a just a metal version of the stock crap, like the MIP are), lighter, less parts for less to break, and stronger. I've run these in all my Slashes from a ROAR-Spec 2S 4x4 Ultimate to an Open Class 6S Drag Car and even a 4S 1/8 Buggy Converted 4x4 Ultimate. Never had an issue.

These axles suck. My suspension would not collapse with these axles in. I thought maybe I order the wrong ones. So I went down to the hobby store and told them I have a 2WD TRAXXAS SLASH. They gave me the same ones I ordered. I sill bought them and tried them out. Same problem my suspension would not travel. If you do not want any travel in you suspension then these will work for you. I am going to order the MIP axles (MIP08106) and I am going to try them out. With my Castle Creations Mamba X ESC and motor I just go through the stock plastic axles in like 2 batteries. I do not recommend these if you like to have travel in your suspension. If you don't care about your travel in your suspension then rock them.

Will these work on the 2wd Slash as well?? Looking for a set for my 2wd as i have the m6 axles in my 4x4 slash which are badass