Was really looking forward to receiving this motor to install into a Savage XL. Could not get the motor running initially as the "out of the box" carb setting were way off and extremely rich.
Once I got it to startup and began the Break-in process,, I gradually found that the "low" needle needed to be turned almost the entire way in until it bottomed out, and then only back out about 1/4 to 1/2 turn in order to get it to start, and idle, and run correctly... very far from the factory recommended setting of about 4.5 turns out from bottomed.
Initially while attempting to start with the stock settings on the carb, it was so rich and so out of tune, that due to the extended and constant attempts to get it running and keep it running - it ended up breaking the one way roller on the pull start. So before I could finish and run the first tank of fuel through it, I had to already dissemble it and swap the one-way roller that luckily I had from other similar motors that fit and worked the same.
I've now had the motor up and running for a couple of weeks and no matter how much I mess with the carb tuning, the low needle is only about 1/4 turn from bottom. And the high needle is close to recommended default settings. Its impossible to reach out to anyone from LRP for help on this, so I've simply left the carb as is, and it actually runs very good like this from idle to off-idle and into wide open.
I've tuned and worked with as many as 25+ Nitro motors in cars, truck, airplanes and even RC boats since the mid 1980's,, I consider myself very experienced and knowledgeable and a very good carburetor and Nitro tuner, and have never seen a carb do this before in these applications.
Once broken-in and deciding to leave and work around the low needle at the nearly bottomed settings.... I have to say this motor is extremely powerful and tugs along great in a Savage XL. Tons of off-idle TQ and great top speed also. This motor is much louder as far as exhaust goes then anything I've seen/heard that are the typical .28, .25 and .21 and etc.
Very powerful engine, wheelie monster on my Savage XL, however, I struggled to get it running because the factory needle settings are grossly inaccurate, took some time to figure out where the needles needed to be. This was verified on two engines, sent a email to tech with these settings. Cannot give a perfect review because LRP needs to address this issue, with online research I found that others had the same problem.
I see lots of bad reviews because of bad factory needle settings which is true however with a little tuning and a proper break in this motor is a powerhouse both my friend and I have these in our savage xls and they have tons of power and hold a tune well. Don’t let bad reviews because of needle settings make you nervous.
Awesome engine. Great all around engine. Amain is fast at shipping
Great engine , easy to tune. The stock needle setting are way too rich, once it’s tuned it runs great, easy to tune, and holds its tune well.
Love these and their .28s! Fantastic engines, good glow plugs too! Love O.S plugs with these! I use number 8s, lc3s, lc4 and number 3s! I also bought a ton of LRP plugs. Have yet to try! They rip
I was nervous about this engine after reading the problems some have had. I installed in my HPI Savage after installing all necessary parts.
Pre heated the engine to 200 degrees, put the igniter on and it fire right up. Minor adjustment and I was on my way to break in. I have 8 tanks through it before the snow came in. It is awesome and as smooth a break in for a long time.
Amain's service was awesome as always and it came early. Thanks for your quick and easy service to get this engine to me.
I put this engine in my HPI Savage XL that I pulled down from the shelf and decided to rebuild. This thing makes me use the wheelie bar when I really get into it. With the three speed transmission it feels like I oculd hit 70+ in that beast. When I get my GPS I will update this with the MPH. I was worried about how difficult it would be to pull start being such a large engine. But it wasn't bad, I suggest letting your glow driver sit for a few more seconds and create that heat before you go pulling away. I would love to get the bump start version and put it in my TLE buggy to see what would happen. I run REDS Engines in all my race vehicles, but for bashing I will have to go with the blue!
For the price point it’s a great engine. I have it in a 8ight T 2.0 truggy for bashing. Preset carb settings are way off. Not even close to being able to run it. but once you set them it’s good to go. Run time per tank is fairly short compared to a nice .21 but that’s expected.
This engine has tons of power. Took a gallon of fuel to break in, I also had to go with a hot glow plug. The factory needle settings were way to rich. I’m at 2 1/2 turns on the high side and 1 3/4 on the mid. But other than that thing is a beast! (#6 OS glow plug)
Like most of the big ticket items I purchase, I bought this from my LHS. Must say, the reviews are all correct about the carb settings being wildly inaccurate.
I found closing the high speed needle 1/4 - 1/2 a turn and the low speed needle about 1.5 turns in from "factory settings" got the car to start.
In a break in, I typically close the low speed needle 1/4 a turn at a time until the car will start and stay running up to about 1/4 throttle works pretty well to keep the engine at 160-200 degrees F (70-90 C), although I did have to alternate between closing the low speed needle a very little (1/4 turn) and high speed needle (1/4 turn) for every two adustments of the low speed needle to get the engine to idle and run to 1/2 throttle. (Always slow pulls of the throttle, run for a short time then let go back to idle)
Once this was completed, I was able to close the high speed needle in 1/4 turns after each tank of fuel ran through it during break in until the engine was running approx. 180 F(~80 C.) and very rich at full throttle. (The engine was extremely rich at this point, but at full throttle was approximately 60% of "full speed")
I actually wound up richening up (opening) the low speed needle approx. 1/4 turn at this point, and the car still ran and idled fine.
The engine is almost fully broken in now, and waking up in the top end.
I tend to just close the high speed needle 1/8 of a turn after each tank at this point in most situations until the motor is consistant and crisp.
In summary, it is imperative during break in to not run nitro engines lean. If the engine is too rich, it will not start and idle. An easy way to combat this situation is to continue leaning out the bottom end until the car starts. BUT sometimes the high speed needle is way too rich and can cause over leaning the low speed needle to get the car to run, so it is a good idea to close the high speed needle 1/4 turn for every two 1/4 turns (or 1/2 turn total) of the low speed needle until the car starts and idles, and then continue to close the low speed needle very little, or 1/8 of a turn, until the engine will start, idle and get up to 1/4 throttle without cutting out.
This method sucks, as the engine will shut off and need to be restarted often to get to this point. The benefit is that this works with ANY nitro engine, even if the factory settings are unknown so long as the engine is TOO rich on both top and bottom AND one does not need to worry about running a new engine lean.
Anyone that has ever owned a German made automobile (think VAG, BMW or Benz) knows that German engineering is difficult to work with, but I am giving three stars for having to restart the engine 8 or 9 times before it would allow me to start the break in process.
great engine just be prepared to change the carburetor immediately as its nearly impossible to tune the stock one
As I have not received this order yet it is difficult to write a review. It is more than a week late and I am unable to track it. I have called UPS and they say it was transferred to USPS . USPS says they never received it. Would I recommend this to a friend? Absolutely not.
